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FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Mall-ternatives: Coach's Corner, Dark Horse Tavern
SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2007

The Christmas shopping season is close at hand. Many males will be dragged beyond their wills to malls as their wives hit the stores in search of those perfect gifts.

I like to look for a lunch place somewhere outside the complex. It's a great way to get to see daylight and to get something other than food-court food.

In Massena, we discovered Coach's Corner, a friendly sports bar and grill with a comfortable atmosphere about five minutes from St. Lawrence Centre.

In Syracuse, we found Dark Horse Tavern, a neat little pub tucked away in a strip mall in DeWitt, east of Carousel Center.

Here's the report from the roving WDT Reviewing Team.

COACH'S CORNER

PARK AVENUE

& WILLOW STREET

MASSENA

769-2127

Coach's Corner is a not-too-sporty sports bar and grill. You almost have to look for sports-related stuff on the walls, and there wasn't a TV in sight tuned to ESPN.

Tables were all set for lunch, and cheerful waitresses invited us to "take a seat anywhere." Specials on the chalkboard looked interesting, and there were lots of good choices on the printed menu.

Appetizers ("pre-game warm-ups") included favorites like blooming onions, wings, nachos; there was also bruschetta and poutine, homemade soups and chili, salads, sandwiches, melts and wraps, pizzas and burgers and homemade desserts.

The bar was quite inviting, but since we were technically "working," we grabbed a table for two near the kitchen.

Bridgette was right on top of things, pushing for an order in case we had to get back to work.

We were at work. And we were in no hurry, so we put an order in for the day's homemade soups: New England clam chowder and tomato, macaroni and beef.

Both were very impressive. The chowder was thick but not pasty, loaded with clams, diced potatoes and herbs.

Tomato, mac and beef was full of the obvious ingredients plus herbs and tasted great. We detected a smoky flavor. Sweet paprika? Smoky sausage?

Bridgette went to the kitchen to ask questions for us, but returned with "chef's secret — Marcel says you're not even close."

I hate when that happens.

A dozen fresh steamed clams were as good as we've had anywhere in the north country — large, plump domestic littlenecks (not those dinky little mahogany clams) perfectly steamed and delicious dunked in melted butter.

We saw and smelled several small pizzas on their way to a nearby table after we had decided on "sand-wedges."

Turkey broccoli melt was yummy: sliced turkey, chopped broccoli and just enough melted cheddar on a kaiser roll. French dip was also good: shaved, seasoned roast beef topped with provolone and served on a kaiser.

We were impressed with the rolls — much better than the supermarket variety — and with the jus with the French dip — beefy without being over-salty.

A side of zesty macaroni salad was excellent. Cabbage noodles were good, but not quite as good as Sabad's in Norfolk, which locals agree sets the standard for this Hungarian treat (sautéed cabbage, egg noodles, spices).

Did we need dessert at this point? No, but we ordered it anyway.

Who could pass up homemade Kahlúa walnut cake or Baileys Irish Cream cake. The two looked almost identical; healthy slices of Bundt cake. The Kahlúa was incorporated into the cake itself with chopped walnuts on top; Baileys was simply a shot of the liqueur over what appeared to be the same cake.

Lunch for two came to $38 before tip. But we ate enough for four. A cup of soup ($2) and a "sand-wedge" ($6.50) would have been sufficient.

Coach's opens for lunch at 11 a.m. Monday through Saturday. Dinner is served from 4 to 9 p.m. the same days. They're closed on Sunday.

DARK HORSE TAVERN

4312 E. GENESEE ST.

DEWITT

446-3180

It's unassuming from the outside, looking like just another storefront in the strip mall. Inside, there's a great Irish pub feel — a long, dark-wood bar with a professional bartender, cozy booths lining the right wall, tall tables up front. The lighting was perfect and so was the music.

A waiter and a waitress working the floor seemed to be double-teaming the tables.

He would take our soup order; she would deliver it. She would take our entrée order; he would deliver it. They were professionals who worked flawlessly together.

Soup of the day was seafood stew with lobster, crab and scallops in a clear broth with veggies, herbs and Old Bay. A great starter on a chilly Friday afternoon.

Calamari was excellent, lightly hand-breaded and lots of it, served with a Cajun sauce and decorated with frilly frisée.

Panini of the day was a creative chicken, sun-dried tomato and avocado. We really appreciated the ciabatta bread, giving it a good, crusty exterior.

Greek quesadilla was a tasty twist on a Mexican favorite, packed with feta, spinach, artichoke hearts, roasted red peppers and pitted kalamata olives.

Someone comes in early, early in the morning to make the desserts. Pumpkin cheesecake was very good. Banana chocolate chip cheesecake piqued our curiosity. We didn't think the combination would work well, but it surely did, especially because the banana flavor was quite subdued.

More lunch than two people should be allowed to eat set the credit card back $44 before tip. Much of it traveled home in those new biodegradable to-go containers.

They also offer a nice selection of salads (beef and blue, pear and goat, Caribbean barbecue), a cheese platter with three kinds of chèvre (goat cheese), their daily double (soup and sandwich combo). Grilled veggie and eggplant Napoleon and scampi style tilapia sounded interesting, too.

The Dark Horse is open for lunch at 11:30 a.m. every day except Sunday.

Dinner is served seven days a week beginning at 4 p.m.

TIDBITS

In Massena, we stopped to explore On-A-Roll Deli & Meats in the old Homestead Dairy Store location on North Main Street. They offer "build your own" hot and cold sandwiches, homemade salads and soups, deli platters, cold cuts, steaks, chicken and all beverages. Their business card reads, "In case of hunger, call 705-2200."

In DeWitt, a stop at Wegmans is a must. This upscale supermarket has an unbelievable produce section, a huge bakery, impressive meats and prepared dinners, the best selection of seafood anywhere, and a deli department that goes on and on. A visit to its Web site will give you the whole picture: www.wegmans.com

Have you considered brining your turkey this Thanksgiving? I thought it was a gimmick until I tried it. It really does make for a moister, tastier bird. Want to try it? Go to www.foodnetwork.com and enter Good Eats Roast Turkey.

You can contact Walter E. Siebel via e-mail: wsiebel@wdt.net.

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